Ends and Odds

I bought one of those pilate balls at a garage sale.

Ha ha ha no I didn’t.

There are some pretty good climbers at the gym I go to (Planet Granite in Sunnyvale). There’s usually somebody working on some V8s and V9s. Once I saw a guy working on a V11. It was pretty crazy. I don’t like the routes there nearly as much as the routes at Vertical Edge in Durham, NC. At Planite Granite when they want to make something harder they make the holds sloper. At VE they tend to make the holds crimpier, and more spread out. But most of all the routes here just feel awkward. Like, there’s never a foot hold where I want one, and I end up smearing on the wall a lot. Which isn’t horrible–the wall surface is good.

You might think a CD labeled “moosic” has a lot of cow-related songs on it. You’d be wrong.

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4 Responses to Ends and Odds

  1. gdoliner says:

    So what level climbs are you working on? And what does a v11 look like? Slopers are the best! Down with crimps! But I guess there is room for all types of climbs. Also I’ve come to realize that Mark at VE is one of the best route setters around.

    • Mark Doliner says:

      Still V3/V4. I don’t think I’ve improved any. I don’t think I’ve gotten too much worse, though, so that’s good.

      V11 looks like… lots of slopers, long moves, overhanging most of the way and crazy pinches. Like, glue a two by four flat on the ceiling and use that as a hold.

  2. Anonymous says:

    sloper and crimpier

    an unhinged hamburger ia called a sloper joe? a donut that is crimpier is called a crueller(sic?)

  3. Anonymous says:

    v9’s and v10’s

    when you get there and fall, just remember that you could have had a V8! ha!

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